Відео

For the herringbone tooth profile you can print it in place - one of the advantages is it wont fall apart!

Well, why not, but this seems over-complicated to my engineer’s eye. Personally, I would just use inserts into the MFT table, then secure the vice with DIN912 bolts and a drill. It’s the simplest approach in my humble opinion: no prototyping, no printed parts, just standard hardware. On the other hand, if you really want to print something, you could use 20mm expanding rubber (TPU) spacers with bicycle cam clamps. You probably won’t find a quicker or more compact system.

Nicely done.

Would be neat to cut the top cover from a sheet of acrylic so you can still see the gears but nothing can fall in.

Genius idea

Impressive craftmanship! Your dedication to all details of this project is outstanding! Thank you for such clear instructions. Perfect!

Thanks for this! I appreciated the quick and straightforward sketch explanation.

briliant video thanks !! Will you provide a link for the glue pen please? xx

Thank you for the nice video. It helped me a lot. You also made a great suggestion regarding the cutting speed with the slider; that's a really good idea. Hopefully, they will integrate that in the future.

Thank you for this interesting ballhead review and comments. Perhaps 3 Legged Thing has addressed these issues by now as I have the Leo 2.0 tripod with this ballhead on order., for use as a travel tripod. I was most impressed with the 66lb. load capacity of this tripod. Also, since I use an Arca-Swiss (Kirk) L-bracket on my camera I never need the QR plate that comes with most tripods. :-)

I’m thinking of replacing my SB to rapid burner with Goliath for my 2.4 350, how is it going 4 months later?

Nice! Where you did get the coloured acrylic sheet from ?

Great video and press design. Are you willing to provide or sell your build plans for this press? The link for your drum fabricator is not working. Do you have specs for the drum as well?

which fan did u used?

Is this man anthony oliphants twin? The hitman 😂😂😂

Just upgraded my 7 year old i3mega to marlin with Bltouch and new tmc2209 drivers. That’s a huge difference compared to stock. This looks nice too but again a lot of tinkering. You can swap boards to 32 bit or add Klipper to give this a second life, but I am tempted to buy a bambulab instead which will give me extra free time, which is the most valuable thing there is😅

Is there any way to etch anodized al surface?

Just graduated and I find the design field very subjective.... every mentors have different opinion/taste. Do what you think is right for you.

Really high quality video - thanks for sharing

Good job brother 👏

Man fuck outta here 50/60 pound. Plus a damn near fully functional machine shop.

I saw Epson sc P6000 it’s cheap but the problem is I don’t know if it’s printing film positive transparency or not so how do I know if any printer do print film positive transparency for screen printing?

This is NOT an all metal. All 701s have plastic threads on both the tip and the end. There is a plastic sleeve inside the main body. That sleeve is what the tip and click mechanism thread to. The metal body is not threaded.

What settings did you use to cut the leather?

Hello, thanks for addressing the confusion over the different types of carrageenan. In the different marbling tutorials I watched, there was no mention that there were different varieties of carrageenan available. I bought the Iota, for the price point. I had no luck with it whatsoever! It was super thin, and the paint just sank. It was so frustrating!! Giving up with the Iota, I ordered some Kappa. But the consistency wasn’t right either. The paint floated but the colour cells were jagged and undefined. After watching your video, I decided to get some Lambda, as you suggested. But before I did, I thought I’d try following the instructions on the Iota package, which says to cook the liquid you wish to thicken. I put 1 litre water in a saucepan and sprinkled in 7 grams of Iota carrageenan. I brought it to a boil on medium high heat. The result was a size mixture of perfect consistency. I’m now using Iota carrageenan exclusively, and getting great results.

Hello Mate, thank you very much for that great tutorial. However, i was wondering if there was any way to coat the interior with something fireproof as sometimes (rarely), lasers could start flames and a wooden enclosure would only make it worse.

If you don't have a press, I've used Bessey clamps before. While it's a slower process it does come with 2k lbs of clamping force.

A nice review, but I just trim and adapt refills from cheap plastic throwaway pens, IF the ink delivery is smooth. They work great.

Great review. I unfortunately own it and can confirm all of the downsides mentioned :/ More than anything, I just wanted it to align correctly, but I've still yet to get one perfect so I'm finding myself not using it at all; huge letdown.

Does anyone know if i should spray fixative spray to my work before or after using gold leaf sheets?

Hey man do you know where I could possibly find the blueprints for this 6x7 back ? Mines got a spring that was moving around inside after a fall and I can’t manage to find where it should be. Thx

Super cool! But it’s some sophisticated machinery you’re using, wouldn’t really label this ”DIY” in the traditional sense.

Never would have guessed a comment on Reddit would have lead me to a professional tutorial. Really awesome, thank you for commenting and thank you double for linking me to this. It was really awesome to see the machine and the process. I like that sled that helps with batching, the F1 is really looking special. Thoughts on the S1? 🤔

"Life is slipping away but i'm not scared, says Billy" on point ! Really nice to see cnc linocut

Can't ever underestimate proper unboxing experiences. It sucks getting stuff naked in a plastic bag. Carding the merch is a nice refutation of plastic bag sadness.

I lost 4 rolls of ektachrome to this issue. Hopefully this works

Great shots! Photo trips are the best for inspiration.

I swear by the spiral V Varve bits, usuall 0.25 mm but often that is used after roughing out. For Copper and Aluminium I also use Metholated Spirts for a lube. The sudden heat change causes the ship to eject from the bits and not gum up as badly especially in aluminium. the rapid evaporation also helps cool things but dont forget that Meths is also flamable so no smoking.

Im late. im assuming it would cut under 5mm leather just fine?thanks!

1 or 2 flute end mills are fine for aluminum. Coating is important though! You want TiSiN, TiCN, ZrN or uncoated endmills. You DON'T want an end mill with any coating containing Al (aluminum) as that will increase the tendency for chip welding to the milling bit.

Can i use fevicol glue

Link to the 3D file in Thingeverse you mentioned in this video , please

This process is a disaster, every time I have to do it I result with a blister somewhere in a finger you never thought it vould be. This things should cost 5 dollars complete so you replace it and keep going.

Very helpful. My interest is clock dials (brass) where the alloy matters. I think that means engraving, rather than relief carving, but breakage has still been a problem. Brass 260 isn't ideal, but 360 isn't available in sheets. Now trying 1/16" end mills followed by V-tips to clean up edges. Can you comment on pass depths, RPM and surface speeds?

So you removed the glass for a magnetic pad? Or went over the glass

Thx! Where can I get a bigger nozzle?

That's a neat idea. Well done.

what temps are you using ? i got on my goliath 75mm³/s for dayly printing and when i go speed printing with higer temps up to 110mm³/s 😅 on my dragon volcano with cht volcano i get 60-65mm³/s 😅 maybe your extruder Ampere is a bit to low 🤔

Neat thanks Good option Tacky glue works too X